The first 12-16 weeks with a puppy
The first 12-16 weeks of a puppy's life are crucial for shaping their personality and how they will behave as adult dogs. During this time, your puppy learns to accept the sights and sounds of everyday life, which helps them remain calm and secure when faced with these situations later in life.
Socialization
The goal of socialization: By properly socializing your puppy, you are promoting confidence, curiosity, and resilience that will be beneficial throughout their life. Your task is to ensure that your puppy feels comfortable and optimistic that the world is a fun and safe place to be. It should be your puppy's choice to meet people and things.
If your puppy appears frightened:
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Tucked tail, trying to move away, eyes wide open, stiff body, refusing treats.
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Quickly move far enough away from the "threat" so that your puppy no longer appears afraid.
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Provide comfort and support, and if necessary, gently pick your puppy up and walk away.
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Offer treats, play with your puppy, or give them some affection to help them relax and build their confidence.
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If your puppy recovers quickly, you could try again and let your puppy decide how close they want to get, or you can call it a day and try again later.
Exploring the World Together
Just because you can't leave your new puppy unattended doesn't mean you can't help them develop the tools they need to cope with being alone. By creating scenarios where your puppy is not encouraged to be with you but still has access to you, you can truly contribute to building their confidence and making it much less stressful for everyone when the time comes to leave them alone at home.
With these strategies and a mindful approach, you can help your puppy become a confident and well-adjusted adult dog. The first weeks of a puppy at home are a crucial time for laying the foundation for a happy and healthy dog life.
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The first weeks with an adult dog
Security is crucial
Moving to a new family can be very unsettling for a dog. Depending on its background, it can be either easier than you think or much more challenging than expected. Nevertheless, the first few days are incredibly important. The dog needs to get to know its new family in a calm and peaceful manner. It might be very tempting to bring over relatives and friends to meet the new dog, but it's best to wait a week, so the dog can become familiar with its immediate family and settle into its new home.
Show the dog its new home. Introduce it to its new sleeping spot (don't shut the dog out from the rest of the family; if you want the dog to sleep in its bed on the floor, you can place the bed beside your bed, so the dog feels your presence if it gets anxious at night) and where its toys are located. If the family has other dogs, it might be wise to let the new dog explore its house and belongings on its own at first, without the other dogs. Once it has had ample time to explore the home, it's usually a good idea to introduce the home's dogs and the new dog during a brief walk before letting them meet. If the dog jumps on the couch or enters a room you'd prefer it not to be in, calmly guide it off the couch or coax it out of the room (and use a gate), and redirect its attention to something else. Do not punish the dog for the mistake, as this won't help in the long run.
Rules
Establishing house rules on the first day will make the new environment less confusing for your dog and provide structure, making it easier for the dog to adapt. However, I'd like to offer a word of caution. I often see trainers who recommend being strict with their dogs when they make mistakes. I believe that if a dog makes a mistake, it's largely because we either failed to make the dog understand our expectations or simply didn't teach it what it should do instead. You can't teach a dog what not to do without simultaneously teaching it what you want it to do instead. For example, if you don't want your dog on the couch, don't just punish it when it jumps on; be clear about where it should be, namely, teach it to lie in its bed on the floor. Make training enjoyable and positive, and you'll have a dog that trusts you and understands what's expected.
Crate training
I grew up with the belief that no animals should be kept in a crate. Not even my rabbits are in crates; they live in a large enclosure. But when you need to exhibit your dog in shows, travel by car, and so on, a crate can be necessary. It's good if the dog sees the crate as a safe and acceptable place to be. Start by getting a crate that's the right size for your dog. The dog should be able to sit and lie down without squeezing or crouching. The crate's floor should be comfortable. A thin blanket won't do; I have a thick dog bed in both of my car crates. I usually begin by placing the crate in the room we're in the most, which is usually the living room, with the door wide open. I often secure the door in an open position, so it can't accidentally shut and startle the dog. Then I put some treats or a toy inside the crate and wait. If the dog is already familiar with crates, it might just walk in and lie down; in that case, reward generously and don't make a big deal out of it. If you have a more anxious dog, I recommend simply sitting nearby and waiting. As soon as the dog shows the slightest interest in the crate, like looking at it or taking a step toward it, reward with high-value treats. Be patient; some dogs may have had very negative experiences with crates, and training can take a long time. But it's possible to change the dog's attitude and make the crate a cozy place to be, where it can have some peace and relaxation. Continue to reward every little progress! When the dog is comfortable with the crate and goes in without hesitation, you can gently start closing the door and rewarding when it's closed. However, personally, I believe crates should only be used in the car for the dog's safety during car rides. I think there are other solutions to all the reasons people keep their dogs in crates indoors.
Diet and treats
Depending on your dog's age and weight, you may need to adjust the amount and content of its food. An older dog might require a special diet. Dogs are considered older when they are around six years old. If you want tips on making good homemade dog treats or learn more about homemade food, click here to visit our member page with free PDF files, or read the whole article and click on the last link located at the conclusion of the article.
Training adult dogs
Most shelters typically conduct a behavior evaluation of the dogs that come to them. This information will help you understand any concerns that may exist with your new dog and provide insight on how to train your dog.
After bringing your adult dog home, you'll want to give it enough time to feel comfortable around you and your family in your home. Your new dog may need time to open up and feel at ease around other family members and other pets. This will depend on your adult dog's history. If your new dog has difficulty trusting a specific person in the family, it's a good idea for that person to handle the initial feeding and perhaps take the dog for walks. Don't force the dog to spend time with someone it's uncomfortable with; let it take time.
Start with a consistent and firm routine
It's not natural for dogs to eat at set times, but you can still maintain the same preparation routine, so the dog learns what's happening. During the first few weeks, it's a good idea to take the same walk every day and give the dog time to explore its surroundings, allowing it to sniff and relieve itself in peace. A dog that changes homes may have difficulty indicating when it needs to go out; you can teach it to go to the door and bark, or place a small bell on the inside of the door that you teach the dog to touch every time it needs to go out. This way, the dog quickly learns that this is the signal to go out. The better you get to know your dog, the better you'll become at recognizing when it needs to go out.
Keep your dog on a leash
Some dogs are more prone to running away than others. If you don't have a fence around your yard that's suitable for your dog's size, it's a good investment to put one up. On walks, you should keep your dog on a leash to prevent it from running off. When you begin training the dog to be off-leash, you can use a long line/check cord. This is a suitably 25-meter-long rope (adjusted to your dog's size and speed; if you have a small dog, the rope should be thinner if you have a very fast one you can make the long line even longer) that you make into a loop and place around the dog's neck. Then you let the rope drag behind the dog like an emergency brake you can step on if the dog rushes off. The more you trust that your dog listens to you in all situations, the shorter you can cut the line. Read more about training on the member page with free PDF files.
Patience and love will help your new adult dog successfully adapt to its new home with you.